Coffeeneuring Ride 4: The Arlington Loop

October 18, 2014

The wind, my God, the wind. For the last 7 miles I felt like I was in one of those endless pools where you swim and swim and don’t get anywhere. I was pedaling and pedaling and had to keep downshifting to make progress. But let’s back up.

I knew that Saturday would be a lovely autumn bike day and decided to ride the “Arlington loop” – a 17-mile circular route that has the best of all worlds. I live in the Westover neighborhood (see the black line to the left of the loop, below), less than a mile from three great bike paths: the Custis, the Four Mile Run, and the W&OD. To ride the loop, I start with the Custis and go clockwise. This allows me to ride the more downhill portion of the Custis and return on the flat W&OD. Also, I can ride the first 12 miles and stop in Shirlington (about 6 o'clock on the map) for a snack – or a hot beverage if I’m coffeeneuring. Busboys and Poets was to be my destination.

 

I called my friend Gayle in the morning and she was up for riding with me; we arranged to meet by the Big Wheel Bikes just off the Custis Trail. But so much for plans. She called and said the brand new tire on her bike was flat and wouldn’t hold air, but she was still up for meeting at BB&P.

The Mt. Vernon Trail was pretty crowded, but I managed to make good time. Once I joined up with the Four Mile Run Trail I just barely missed a black snake that was slithering off the path toward the grass. This was when the wind began, but I had the motivation of lunch, so I forged ahead.

Gayle and I had a lovely leisurely lunch, which I capped off with a soy chai latte – sweet and tasty enough to qualify as desert, with lots of cinnamon. Even though the end of the loop is then just 5 miles to home, the wind was fierce and I had to ride directly into it.

 But I felt well exercised, well fed, and happy to have caught up with my friend. Tomorrow morning I fly to the West Coast for vacation/business. I have already scoped out some options for Cali-coffeeneuring – so stay tuned!

Total distance: 17 miles

Coffeeneuring 2014 - Weeks 1 and 2

Week 1

As luck would have it, the beginning of the 2014 coffeeneuring challenge coincided with a trip to New York. As I did last year, I made it a goal to avoid chains and seek out the independent coffee shops. Fate smiled kindly on me: when I Googled “independent coffee shop NYC” I discovered a recent NY Times article about the emerging coffee culture in the city. Once I identified the most appealing shops, I had to check for early morning openings on Saturday and Sunday, and then find proximity to a Citibike docking station.

October 4, 2014

Saturday morning dawned drizzly, but that was not going to deter me. I grabbed a bike at 32nd and Park, near the very shabby (and definitely not chic) Community Church of NY lodging that constituted my NY digs and headed downtown on the 2nd Ave protected bike lane. My destination was Box Kite on St Mark's Place, which opened at 7 and had as its specialty the "one and one" - an elegant preparation for the true connoisseur. Using single-harvest beans, the double-shot espresso is split into two preparations: a straight shot in one cup and a thick, creamy elegant macchiato in the second cup. Nestled between the two little cups is a little glass of sparkling water and a tiny cookie - reminiscent of my recent trip to Vienna, where the outstanding coffee is always accompanied by a glass of water.

I have never tasted anything like the preparation, which was sour and green tasting, but packed with flavor. On its own, it was incredibly intense; as a macchiato, it was a delight. Tiny sips alternated with the water and nibbles of cookie made for a memorable and unique coffee experience. My server informed me that the coffee was Kirura from Kenya, and roasted by Mad Cap. I think he could have given me the names of the folks who harvested the beans, if I'd asked! He wanted to know how I liked it. I said it was not an every day coffee, but was wonderful for a special treat, and he heartily agreed.

 

I had planned to ride back and pick up bagels at my favorite - Ess-a-Bagel - but alas, they were closed for Yom Kippur. I suppose I should have been fasting myself, but a book group reunion in NY gave me an excuse to skip the fast this year.

Total distance: 4 miles

October 5, 2014

Finding an independent coffee shop that was open at 7 on a Sunday morning was more of a challenge; I had to be back in my room close to 8, as I was catching a 9 a.m. train. Also, cheapskate that I am, I wanted to use my same 24-hour Citibike rental, so my ride had to be completed by about 7:40. As a side note, the Citibike app very conveniently allows the user to add coffee shops to the map. However, early on a Sunday morning the bikes have not been redistributed, and a number of locations were either empty or full. Nevertheless, I had everything planned out until I hit a glitch. 

The station nearest me gave me an unlocking code, but I tried two different bikes, and it would not let me remove a bike. Thinking I had, perhaps, remembered the code incorrectly, I tried to get another one. But, of course, the user must wait two minutes for a new code. I didn't have time to spare, so I elected to walk to the next location, where I was able to secure a bike and ride to 47th street. I had planned to walk west to Gregory's, which also made the NYT review, but a block sooner I saw Filicori Zecchini, which was just opening its doors. So I opted for a redeye with kosher organic milk, which was quite good, although nothing exceptional.

Total distance: just barely 2 miles. [Every once in a while the coffeeneuring rules need to be slightly bent. Had my original docking station been functional, I could have completed the short trip by bike, but I feel I should get credit for my walking distance, not to mention my perseverance! I wanted to complete two visits while in NY so that I'd have more variety than I'd be able to find at home.]

October 7, 2014

Bonus ride - I always seem to have a lot of travel during coffeeneuring season, and I suggest that any time the cyclist is away from home should be a coffeeneuring opportunity, any day of the week. I have an annual meeting in Brookline, MA, so I already knew that my hotel would be right across the street from the Coolidge Corner Hubway station. But what a thrill to search for the best independent coffee shop in Boston and discover that the winner was just a mile away, and a block from another Hubway station. At 6:45 the sky was getting light and it was already a balmy 61 degrees. After being in NY, where a day pass on Citibike cost over $10 (with tax), the $6 day charge for Hubway felt like a bargain.

Some readers may disagree, but, having biked in many cities, I consider Boston drivers the worst. Despite some of the most extensive signage, I really don't like riding on major roads in Boston unless they have a designated bike lane. Fortunately my blocks on the very busy Beacon street were few, and I was able to head north on the aptly-named Pleasant Street to Blue State Coffee on Commonwealth Ave. I arrived just as they opened at 7 and asked the barista what drink would best showcase their "best-in-Boston" status. He suggested a cappuccino. Indeed, it was smooth, creamy, and full-flavored, without a hint of bitterness.

The only downside of my adventure was that the ride was too short. I wanted to spend the morning riding around, and would have loved to ride to my meeting at Boston College - but, alas, the Hubway system doesn't extend that far west. So I returned to my room for yoga and a shower before my meeting. The docking station was completely empty, so I imagine another rider nabbed my returned bike within minutes.

Total distance: 2 miles (wanted more!)

Week 2

October 12, 2014

Saturday morning was a rainy mess, so I decided to wait till today for my expedition. Sunday turned out to be one of those perfect biking days: low 60s, clear, and crisp. I biked to yoga and taught my two Sunday morning classes (still waiting for @coffeeneur to show up at Sun and MoonArlington some Sunday morning). It was so gorgeous I decided to bike from there to Georgetown.

My mom had sent me a check for my birthday (which is tomorrow). Even at 62 I guess I’m not too old! So I went to Athleta, where I get a generous 30% teacher discount, and my birthday check was enough for two brightly-colored (are you happy Cycling Yogi) cool-weather tops. Coming across Key Bridge I spied Pie Sisters and decided to add a little sweetness to my hot beverage. Luckily, Revolution Cycles is right next-door, and they provide two bike racks – possibly the only ones in all of Georgetown.

It was a hard decision, but I chose a key lime tart, accompanied by ginger-lemon tea. I ordinarily buy Yogi brand at home, but I must admit – they served Stash, and it was superior.

Fueled by sugar and whipped cream, I headed home along the Custis Trail – an uphill climb that I usually avoid at all costs. But today I had magic pedals. The uphill stretches didn’t seem so bad and I never even got to my lowest granny gear. Maybe 62 won’t be so bad.

Total distance: 11 miles

Guest Blog from last month: Cycling Yogi Reports from San Jose

I’m in San Jose this week for an anti-aging conference.   It’s a town with a high cost of living, and I’m grateful to be able to stay with my friend, Dianne, about 10 miles from the Hyatt Regency where the conference takes place.  What a great opportunity to commute by bike!

So I called in advance to ask Dianne if she knew anyone with a bike I could borrow.  No luck, but she suggested the urban bike share program, new to San Jose. Trouble with that solution is that they don’t extend out as far as the Hyatt.  If you keep a bike more than ½ hour, the penalty is prohibitive.

Dianne referred me to a bike rental shop at the other end of town.  The trouble there is that they cater to the high-revenue market of sport enthusiasts, rather than commuters.  They rent bikes by the day, but they’re more expensive than a car rental (which in San Jose is unusually cheap).

So I found a friendly smaller shop near Dianne that specializes in repairs and sales of used bikes. Over the phone, they described for me a vintage 1983 Schwinn World Sport, which Chuck said might be large enough for me.  At $100, it was priced so I could buy it and then either sell it back, or leave it in my mother’s garage, 70 miles down the coast, so I can use it in the future when I visit her.  Chuck reserved it for me on my word, without asking for a credit card.

These classic Schwinns were built to last forever, but not for convenience, not for comfort, and certainly not for light weight.  It’s carbon steel throughout, a quilted plastic seat with springs underneath, no quick release wheels or seat post, requiring crescent wrenches rather than Allen for all adjustments. But a significant advance over the Schwinns of my youth, that had welded steel frames (no lugs) and cranks with cotter pins.

I’m moderately tall, but the place where I have trouble fitting a bike is that all my height is above the waist.  I look for a bike with a long top tube, then use a long stem combined with bar ends to get a comfortable reach.  When I’m buying a new bike, I can always find a good fit, but in the As-Is used bike market, I have to get lucky.

For $100 and my limited needs, I thought it was the appropriate technology.  The top tube and stem were not quite long enough for me, but with a little help from Chuck we devised an innovative modification--no replacement parts--that gave a longer reach.

We rotated the old-style handlebars (designed for sitting comfortably upright) 180 degrees around so they are low and forward.  It’s not ideal. It feels a little unstable, and I have to reach a little for the brake handles, which are on backwards.  The shifters are nowhere near my thumbs, and I just let go of one hand to reach for them.  (Luckily, my route is pretty flat, and I’m not shifting much.)  What I get for these inconveniences is a comfortable and efficient body position, leaning forward in the posture to which I’m accustomed.

My route

California is such a mixed bag. On the one hand, it’s a progressive state, full of people who pride themselves in independent thinking, self-sufficiency and fitness.  The dry, mild climate is inviting, and the human ecology is bicycle friendly. But the whole concept of California is inseparable from automobiles. Eastern cities were laid out in the 18th and 19th centuries, when people got around on foot and in horse-drawn carriages.  California cities were planned with car commutation in mind. Everything is designed for ease of auto access.  It’s roughly true that Eastern cities were planned for human-scale transportation, and cars were retrofitted, while Western cities were planned around cars.  And with the explosive growth in popularity of cycle-commuting in the 21st Century, they’re now retro-fitting for bicycles.

San Jose is at least an organic community, settled in the 19th Century, with residential areas and a downtown area.  Santa Clara, where the conference is held, is just a zip code with freeways, malls, and industrial parks.  There are no parks, no sidewalks, and it’s alien territory for a pedestrian.

So I found (Google maps found) two lovely bike paths on my 10-mile commuter route, totaling about ⅔ of the total distance.  This is a picture from the Guadaloupe River Park Bike Path.  I note with amusement that what passes for a “river” in this state is any sandy ecosystem threading through the plain that is wet at the end of a downpour, at least once a year.  In August, the Guadaloupe River is water-free geologic formation.

So I appreciated that this city has built bike paths, but they aren't connected to each other.  What a mess!  There are cyclists risking their lives on roads where cars are whizzing by at 50 MPH just a few feet away.  No sidewalks, and yes!  there are marked bicycle lanes on the shoulders of these boulevards with timed lights where the cars are zipping by, close enough to raise my adrenaline levels and the hairs on my neck.

In the evening, on my way home, the GPS was spotty and I tried to retrace my route from memory.  When I missed a turn, I spent more time on the hiway and less time on the bike path.  I found myself on roads that had no bike lanes and no sidewalks, and other roads that had bike lines but shouldn't have.  

The worst moment was on a road where cars were zipping along at 50 or 60, I was in a nominal bike lane on the right and then the bike lane disappeared, traffic crossed onto a freeway on-ramp, and the bike lane re-appeared 50 yards up ahead.

...which brings me to the anti-aging conference, and what I’m learning that fits on the Biking Yogini page.  

Yogis and Asian sages have a reputation for longevity that goes back thousands of years.  Now there are studies relating meditation to biomarkers of long life.  Gradually, science is validating what ayurvedic medicine has known for centuries.

I learned today that lung elastic fibres are among the few tissues that are never replaced, and must last a lifetime.  And that the small-particle particulate pollution from diesels accelerates brain aging.  A study of heart disease in LA found higher rates in the areas most exposed to smog, and particulate pollution was associated with thicker carotid arteries, a warning sign for heart attacks.

This is a message I have yet to absorb.  I’m accustomed to thinking of bicycling as personally healthy, and not just environmentally responsible.  I don’t want to think that my lifelong habit of cycling in traffic is shortening my life, or rotting my brain and lungs.  Does the benefit of the exercise trump the cost of the pollution?  It may be a difficult question for science to answer, and I don’t want to think about it.

Update

The second day commuting to the conference, I discovered that the Guadaloupe River path goes another 4 miles beyond where it looked like it ended.  Now I don’t have to go out on the hiway, and almost 8 miles of my 10 mile commute are on the path.

The Danube looks more sage-green than blue

I feel like a real bike-tour veteran now, having finished the last two days of biking without a single incident of getting lost or riding the relief van. Of course it helped that both days we biked along the Danube and the course was mostly flat. 

On Sunday we took a river barge from Passau to Schlogen, and then biked along the Danube to Ottensheim - a distance of 32 miles. About 3/4 through the ride, we crossed a dam, just as hail began to strike us. Fortunately it was a brief shower, it never rained hard, and it came toward the end of the ride. However, we then had another transport - by bus - to our hotel in Weissenkirchen. It was a lot of transports in one day, and the need to meet the bus meant there was some pressure to finish the ride a bit faster than I would have liked. While I love having the van support and the company making arrangements and figuring out good routes, I definitely prefer going at my own pace - and would have liked more freedom to stop for photos or just a little rest.

Our hotel in Weissenkirchen was quite impressive, however: an ancient building in a renaissance village. It felt like stepping into a fairy tale.

Our final day of cycling was a 40 mile loop, cycling upstream from Weissenkirchen to Melk, where we stopped for lunch. I was desperate for vegetables. The hardest part of traveling in Bavaria is the meat-heavy culture...a true carnivore's paradise. I've had plenty of delicious whole grain, seeded breads, cheeses and tasty yogurt, and plenty of fruit. And I've been the lone person loading up on the raw veggies always included with breakfast. I walked round and round Melk and finally - in the butcher store- I was able to get a plate filled with 4 different vegetarian salads: cucumber, potato, cabbage, and a carrot/turnip blend - all delicious. I practically licked the plate!

From Melk, we crossed to the other side of the Danube and biked beyond Weissenkirchen to Durnstein, taking our bikes across the river on a tiny ferry. I biked most of the day with Katia and we took it slowly, stopping often for photos. I was proud of finishing 40 miles and we had the most perfectly glorious weather - sunny and temperatures in the mid 60s to low 70s. The ride upstream took us through many small villages and the ride along the other side was more rural - with many of the vineyards that produce the region's white wine. The color of the Danube indeed was a lovely shade of sage green, as once it blended with the Inn river in Passau it contains glacial sediment from the Alps. My one regret of the day was that I didn't know in advance that there was a beach by the ferry to Durnstein. It would have been my one chance to dip my feet into the chilly waters, but alas, I was running late so I'll have to return for another chance.

This morning we said goodbye to our VBT tour guides, who were unfailingly helpful and patient: Jan more animated and entertaining, and Andy more calm and low-key. We took a bus to Vienna, and it was a bit of a shock to be back in an urban environment...not such a welcome one, but perhaps a good transition before I have to return home. I wore my feet out walking, getting a little lost, tasting yummy foods at the naschmarkt, viewing amazing art at the Leopold Museum (featuring Egon Schiele - one of my favorites - who tragically lived only to the age of 28). Exhausted, I took the metro back to my hotel, discovering that I just barely qualify for senior-priced tickets (two rides for €2,80...less than $2/ride). I also got senior admission to the museum - yay!

Two more days to explore Vienna, and then home...with strong thighs and fond memories.

Cue-sheet Clueless

After getting off the route because of lagging behind on my first full day of cycling through the Czech Republic, yesterday I determined to stay with the front of the pack - a decision that led to a grueling 4.5 mile steady uphill climb. Yes, my trip-mates took a wrong turn from the start, and nearly the entire group followed. But half the "sheep" were rescued by one member having a bike malfunction. When one of the guides came to help, he sent that group the right way, but didn't realize that 6 of us were heading up, up, up the mountain. 

We realized the route was considerably harder than a "beginner" trail, but - well - I had thrown in my lot with the competitive, overachiever faction. We ended up having to retrace the entire 4.5 miles back down, which was obviously faster...but then we still had 15 miles to go for lunch - along the flat scenic river route. I did manage to get a photo of a spectacular mushroom.

As soon as we crossed the border into Germany the landscape changed from forest into neatly manicured farmland, which was so picture-perfect I felt like I was in a Playskool diorama. After lunch I was exhausted and took the so-called "van of shame." I was glad I did, because even the most fit of our group admitted the last stretch had punishingly intense hills. I would not have made it!

At this morning's pre-ride briefing, I finally asked the questions I should have asked on day one and learned how to properly read the daily cue sheet we get that explains the route. The one young couple in our group were the only ones who followed the directions correctly the previous day, and I realized that meticulous following of directions really matters.

Today was our "easy" day - biking along the Inn River along the German side from Passau, and returning along the Austrian side after crossing at Scharding. I was proud of myself for not getting lost once! 

I spent the afternoon wandering through Passau. Being Saturday there was a flea market, which had the usual assortment of interesting antiques and outright junk. I felt proud that my initial beginnings of conversation with vendors led to long German explanations as to the great value of the objects I'd enquired about. While I couldn't understand what they were saying, my accent seemed to be good enough that they thought I could - that is until I admitted, "Ich verstehe nur ein bisschen Deutsch."

I also took advantage of the opportunity to ease my tired muscles with another fabulous massage, though I admit my muscles still feel weary.

Tomorrow we start the day with a barge down the Danube, and then cycle through Austria, from Schlogen to Linz - and I plan to read my cue sheet with care.

Navigationally Challenged

There's a reason I chose a group tour for my first bike trip, and it's not just that I like the idea of a van hauling my luggage from town to town. No, have the proverbial "can't navigate my way out of a paper bag" sense of direction, and in the first two days of the trip I established those credentials by leading myself (and others who were foolish enough to get behind me) astray. But why focus on the mishaps? I'm safely back in my room, so all's well that ends well, as the Bard wrote.

Yesterday's training ride through the countryside around Cesky Krumlov - a UNESCO World Heritage site, with its castle dating back to the 13th century- started off with a kidney-jiggling kilometer or so on ancient cobblestones. But then we hit the paved road and enjoyed the scenic farms and rolling hills just long enough to work up an appetite for dinner, which was served in the basement of a former catacomb, accessed by a low-ceilinged spiral staircase.

But before dinner we had a welcome reception with introductions from our tour guides - Jan from Czech Republic and Andy from Austria - and our fellow cyclists: a group of 15, comprising 6 couples and 3 single women (yay - I was relieved to not be the only "third wheel".) I'm not much of a drinker, but beer is such a part of the Czech culture (with the world's highest per capita consumption - so they told us) that I decided to sample the local brew. Wow! It was exceptionally tasty and flavorful and I was glad I gave it a try.

This morning we started in the village of Holasovice, which I discovered has its own. mini-Stonhenge, and cycled toward the town of Plav. The temperature was perfect, low 60s and overcast, with just an occasional light sprinkle. While I had been keeping mostly with a cluster of our group, I started paying more attention to my conversation with Katia - one of the other solo women, from Seattle - and before we realized it we had fallen behind the group and missed a turn. After some false starts, we called Jan who very graciously gave us directions back to the route. 

Throughout the countryside I noticed abundant fruit trees - just as I had in Prague. We arrived with a good appetite to the huge farmhouse where we were hosted to a family dinner that was the most delicious (and totally vegetarian-friendly) meal I've had in the CR: vegetable soup, salad, farmer's cheese sandwiches, a savory strudel...and more. During lunch the rain began, which helped me decide to take the van back to the hotel, instead of riding the additional 8 miles back. (The trip out had been about 15 miles). Physically, I could have done it, but the rain began in earnest, which just didn't appeal to me. Five of us took the van, and the rest braved the rain.

It turned out to be a happy decision for all of us in the van - the cyclists got thoroughly drenched and cold. I have nothing to prove, and was happy to have the afternoon free to buy a few gifts. Later we all toured the castle which was quite impressive, and I was glad I had skipped Prague castle in favor of this one.

My evening was rounded out by an hour-long massage - which was absolutely divine - for the absurdly low price of $25! I expect to sleep well tonight, windows wide open to cool fresh air, and the sound of the Vltava River rushing along beside me.

Skip Prague Castle - Visit Petrin Park

Combine jetlag, a poor sense of direction, and an ancient city with winding streets and the results are predictable...getting lost. And when that city is Prague, with street names and numbering systems that are somewhat incomprehensible to a befuddled American, it's hard to navigate with efficiency. But vacation time isn't about being efficient. It's about making new and unexpected discoveries while wandering toward one destination and finding another.

Yesterday, after a sleepless overnight flight, followed by a hotel nap, my goal was to find a vegetarian restaurant, and see the sights of the Moldau River, with it's many bridge crossings, and explore the old part of town. Clearly, this was tourist central, as nearly everyone I saw was holding a map and turning it in odd directions, looking as disoriented as I felt. I enjoyed the street musicians, the extraordinary architectural details, and - just as I was about to give up, I found the veg cafeteria, which even had the poppyseed dumplings my friend Sarah had told about. There was a health food store next door where I picked up a few emergency supplies (a lot of Czech food is not very veg friendly). I then wandered past an open air market selling lovely berries and apricots.

Today's agenda was based around following the self-guided tour along the #22 tram recommended by the Rick Steves guidebook I had checked out of the library. As I walked toward the tram line, I made note of some areas to explore later. The idea was to get away from the touristy part of the city and into a normal neighborhood. But quite soon I saw the entrance to Petrin park and could not resist the chance to ride the funicular to the top. I mean really - how many chances does one get to ride a funicular?

Looking at my map I decided I could walk through the park and pick up the tram line on the other side, continuing toward my original destination. Naturally, I first walked the wrong direction, but got to see the tower resembling a mini-Eiffel Tower. I passed up the chance to climb it, instead walking the other direction through the park - which turned out to be a magical wonderland of twisting cobblestone paths, trees, ponds, and views of Prague's famous red rooftops. I had no idea where I would come out, but every time there was a fork in the path I chose the option that seemed to head more downhill. I was impressed by the hardy bicyclists who had pedaled to the top of the park!

When I reached street level, there was a map store - yay - where I invested in something a bit more helpful than the resources I'd started with and, even better, a helpful clerk who pointed me in the right direction. As usual, my instinct would have taken me the wrong way. 

As I headed west on the tram, the driver announced that it was the end of the line...two stops before where I thought I was going. The next tram driver told me I could take a bus, but as I was waiting I managed to find a wifi connection and discovered I was just half a mile from where I was headed. As I walked it became clear why the guidebook let me down: there was major road construction tearing up the tram lines. Serves me right for relying on an out-of-date book.

By then I had to find a restaurant that had a restroom and something I could eat that was not pizza or Asian food. Why come all the way to Prague for that? After much looking I found someplace serving what turned out to be a somewhat strange combination of beets in a cumin and cashew sauce, with a big round of warm goat cheese and little fried potato pancakes. It (and the WC) hit the spot.

From there I made my way to Prague castle - again, with going the wrong way and making some forays along the old city wall. By the time I reached the castle I found the whole thing overwhelming. It's an enormous complex of buildings swarming with tourists...but nothing resembling a "castle." I was expecting a medieval-looking fortress and instead a bit of reading informed me that it had all been rebuilt numerous times over the years. So I contented myself with wandering through the compelx without going inside and coming out the other end.

Tomorrow - who knows - perhaps the Jewish quarter, on my last full day in Prague before the biking part of my trip begins.